Chuck Close, Up Close

This morning at my uncle’s house in Marina, just north of Monterey, I woke to the smell of coffee. This must be a common Harris thing: wake early, brew a strong pot, catch up on what’s happening in the world. A family morning ritual I can stand behind. This particular morning, Rabobank mug in hand, I watched footage of a major tunnel collapse in Japan, political stirrings in Egypt, heat-mapped weather projections of the storm raging outside. Good to know what’s going on over the horizon. It starts to make sense towards the end of the first mugful.

I had planned this weekend to take some ‘me time’—perhaps a jaunt in the Freedom camper into the redwoods, or a night camped by the beach. California had other plans in store for me. The storm that raged up the coast was enough to make outdoor activities less than desirable. Luckily, the Saturday I spent touring Monterey with my Uncle was relatively clear, and what fun we had!

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I learned about Chuck Close during my studies at University of Washington. It’s difficult to learn about twentieth-century artists without his name popping up, and for good reason. His large and dynamic portraits, specifically the ones made up of hundreds of colorful tiny abstract squares, have always appealed to me with the sheer depth of creativity taken to produce them. Yes, yes, he has a huge team assembled to help him. Yes, yes, the inspiration for leveling a face into a two-dimensional image may come from a learning disability preventing him from recognizing faces. No matter. Even if you’re not ‘into portraiture’, it’s easy to see why these works are genius.

In contrast with his contemporary Andy Warhol’s famous stylized images of celebrities (e.g. Elvis, Marilyn Monroe), Close chooses subjects unknown to the general public (at least at the time of the portrait) and breaks the images down into grids of abstract color. In my eyes, the true talent of Close’s work becomes apparent when the viewer examines the image up close, noting the grid-like systemization of color, then falls back to a distance and is surprised to see that as a whole these many abstractions combine into something like photorealism. It’s amazing. A video played on a projector in art school does them absolutely zero justice.

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The exhibit included more than Close’s large paintings. Huge wall sized portraits of men and women done entirely by thumbprint were scattered through the exhibit. By thumbprint, you ask? Yes, by thumbprint.

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There were also some amazing pieces involving a mirrored cylinder surrounded by a drawn-out image. This process completely blew me away. The angle of the cylinder to the paper produced a reflected face that was completely indistinguishable on the surrounding paper. Amazing.

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SO, you can understand my excitement when Uncle Greg mentioned the Chuck Close: Works on Paper 1975-2012 exhibit at the Monterey Museum of Art. A day to visit with my Uncle AND see Close’s work up close? (buh dun chhhh) Yes, please.

The Monterey museum has two locations: one in downtown Monterey on Pacific Street, and the other, La Mirada, in the surrounding hills. I love the separation of spaces allowing for a more intimate viewing experience, but I had no idea what a gem the La Mirada location was. An old Spanish-style building surrounded by gardens, rough-hewn beams sprouting from ceilings, whitewashed walls catching the sun and echoing sounds… even if it wasn’t filled with fantastic contemporary art I would feel at home here. The intimate, elegant space flowed easily from one room to another, and the deep colors of the polished hardwood floors brought out the rich hues in the artwork. It is definitely a place I will be visiting again.

More photos from our day of fun:

Upstream

I’m standing in the middle of redwood and tan oak trees. Still, unmoving. The silence is complete and absolute. My ears implode with the absence of sound, as if I’ve just skyrocketed up a thousand feet. Hands at my sides, face turned upwards… quiet sinks slowly into my bones and replaces the white noise I rarely even notice any more. I close my eyes and suddenly, like petals opening, the external silence has layers: a raven caws; a solo woodpecker keeps his own rhythm high above the ground. I know Salamander Creek is behind my right shoulder from the faint trickle of water and the louder sound of amphibious melody. I can almost hear the earth moving.

Amidst these redwoods, I stand on the spot where I first dreamt, first walked, first spoke, first realized. There is nothing here now between the thousand-year-old trees save bits of faded wood, overgrown scotch broom, deep gouges where irreverent dirt bikers from the City have cut into the earth with their tires. The disrespect of it makes me want to scream. A small voice reminds me that they don’t know the power of this place, or its history. If they did, would they have left these scars where I was conceived? To see the earth here so torn is physical pain for me. In my heart this place will always be as it was when I was a child: full of wonder and magic and fantasy. It is a part of me. I don’t want to remember it like this. Mentally, I lower the screen of my memory, returning the terrain to how it was when I was a child. In my mind the earth is glowing and it resonates within me.

Dad walks back down to the Millsite to maneuver the camper up towards where our cabin once stood, and I head up the creek towards the spring. Right away I greet my old friends. Boulder—my first palate with swirls of dissolved sienna, umber and ochre sandstone, standing moss-strewn and more rounded in the shoulders than I remember him; Stump—old carved logging footholds a ladder to the stage of so many fantastic performances. I see the overgrown trail (aka ‘the path of grownups’) curve up the bank to the right. I continue walking up the middle of the dry stream.

I know every bend, every crook and puddle in Salamander Creek from the Rose’s cabin to the spring. Even now, when fallen trees whose roots once loomed above me now only reach my shoulder, I know exactly where I am. I know this place in my bones, better than any city or neighborhood, despite the effects of time that have changed both of us. I can close my eyes and tell you the direction even if you spin me around. This place is in my blood.

I walk slowly upstream, stopping now and then to close my eyes and listen. I hold my breath, hoping the ecosystem I have interrupted will continue despite my presence. I pick my way over familiar slabs of rock and fallen logs, noticing the decay of certain once-firm crossings. Time has reached this place. Somehow I never thought it could.

When I reach the spring, the well is dry. Further up, the corrugated sheet metal that once protected the source is cast aside and silt and leaves have clogged up this gateway into the earth. Water, most stubborn of elements, continues to trickle through the mud, finding its way gradually into the stream and eventually out to sea. I kneel and lift a handful of silt from the hole, running it through my fingers, massaging it into the kitchen cuts and scrapes on my hands. If anything could heal me, it would be this. I cover myself to my wrists, working the mud over and into my skin. It feels good, and the smell of it is primitive and familiar. I find a spot nearby in the sun, turn my face and dyed hands to the rays, and I don’t move until I can feel the mud dry and crack on my skin. My body one again has absorbed this place, made it a part of my self like it always has been. When I open my eyes, there are tiny cracked trails running over my palms like a new layer of fortune to be told. I carefully, slowly, wash my hands clean in the creek, watching the dust become mud again and sink in the water. I feel a tumultuous part of myself settle with it.

I take the trail back downstream.

Pre-Feasting Healthy Day

It’s gray and rainy in Oakland today. I woke up this morning to the sound of rain hitting the earth outside my window, falling in a hard stream from the gutter. In that first moment of consciousness, I thought I was back in Seattle. Thus begins my first real day of homesickness.

Rain:  a perfect excuse to spend the day in the kitchen, and a great way to distract myself from thoughts of home. I’ve always felt the calm of meditation while I cook, and I need that today. My first instinct is to go straight for the comfort food, something warm and savory and forgiving, but with Thanksgiving on Thursday and about a month of well-stocked parent’s fridge-raiding behind me (circling my middle, in fact) it is time to do the healthy thing. Cook the comfort food to make myself feel better and set it aside for later, then have salad for lunch. Fine. Harumph.

I compromise with myself (it’s oh so easy), and decide to make some chickpea salad. It’s definitely in the salad category, and packs a beany protein punch to keep me full and from picking at the tastiness reserved for Thursday. It’ll also use up some ingredients in the fridge so I have room for the Thanksgiving groceries. Bam! A Twofer.

I start by rinsing some canned garbanzos and throwing them in a small bowl, along with some diced red bell pepper and purple onion. Usually I use regular raisins, but the cupboard reveals some golden ones today, so I will use those. In the bowl they go. I decide on a Moroccan-style dressing, and toast up some ground cumin, turmeric and paprika in a dry skillet before adding them to some apple cider vinegar and brown sugar. A quick stir, then a slow stream of canola oil, mixing vigorously to emulsify. Yum. My dressing is slightly thick, just the right blend of sweet and savory, and a fantastic golden color from the blend of spices. In with the beans and veggies. 

I toss everything well, then put it in the fridge for about an hour to let all the flavors combine. Ideally I would leave this covered in the fridge overnight, but I’m too hungry! When you let it marinate longer, the raisins absorb the dressing and plump up, giving you little sweet flavor bursts. Yum.

Now to make the whole salad. I line the bottom of a shallow bowl with lettuce and top it with about a cup of the garbanzo bean mix. On top go some beautiful sliced golden heirloom tomatoes and plenty of freshly torn mint. Voila! A hearty, vegan, tasty lunch salad.

And with my belly full and my mind guilt-free, I turn to prep for the tasty (but not as healthy) Thanksgiving meal I’m serving on Thursday. Veggies and Moroccan dressing today? Definitely something I can be thankful for.

Follow Through

This morning I signed the contract offered to me by YBM Sungbuk ECC. As I slipped the documents into the FedEx International Priority envelope, my chest swelled with a sense of completion, even though there are still many steps to take before I leave. Once the documents are received, I will be issued an E2 Visa number that I can give to the Korean embassy in San Francisco. They will take my passport, my picture, and give me approval to enter their country to work for the Sungbuk school.

Completion. Approval. I followed through on a decision I made last February, left my home, my friends, my Seattle family. I followed through. If you don’t know me well, this may not come as a shock. For those who have patiently listened to my years of dreamy, idealistic inaction, I hope you can share the pride that I feel. No, I did not go back to school to be a graphic designer, nor attend culinary school. I did not get a high-paying job in order to afford medical insurance by the time I turned 26. I did not blaze a trail across Seattle with my success and motivation.

Instead I am a survivor and opportunist.  An opportunistic survivor, if you will. A lazy one. When I was laid off last October, I spent over a month idling on “funemployment”, doing art projects, creating this website, enjoying the break, running the numbers. I burned through all of my savings, freaked, and dug in my heels. By mid-November I was working two jobs, had moved out of my studio apartment and in with Alec and Jeremy, saving every penny so that I could find a place with Laura when she came back from Korea. I worked a lot, exercised more than I ever have, and was happy when I looked in the mirror, both for what I was accomplishing and for actually doing it. Desperation is certainly a driving force. Amidst the stress of change, I found my strength.

My initial decision to go to South Korea was fueled by a similar desperation. I had just left one job and been promoted at the other, but despite my love for what I was doing every day it was hardly making ends meet. I was, I am, sick of living paycheck to paycheck, worrying about money constantly. And yet… cooking is the most creative job I’ve ever had and I can honestly say that I love it. I’m good at it. It makes me feel empowered. If only what I love could empower my bank account! When Laura suggested a year in Korea to save up, I was intrigued. Her experience sounded so wonderful, and while I wasn’t ready to go with her the year before, something inside me had changed. I felt stronger, more capable. Ready for an adventure. I wasn’t running from anything, instead I was running towards what I wanted my life to be. Ultimately, the thought of waking up at thirty in the same boat scared me more than the prospect of moving overseas for a year. So I told myself I was going.

Telling yourself and actually taking the steps to make it happen are two very different things. I’m great at the former. A real pro, actually. I have self-delusion down pat. Tomorrow will be chores day. Yeah, right. This week I’m going to eat well and exercise. Sure. Uh huh. I think I’ll go to graduate school. My inner self just smiles and nods.

With Korea, I knew things had to be different. Maybe that’s why I actually followed through: I came to the decision with a list of past failures and was unwilling to accept another. I waited awhile before telling my friends. I knew it would be difficult to say I was leaving for at least a year, and I wasn’t sure I could take the shame of another “I’ve got my life figured out now; I’m going to__________!” only to later tell them with averted eyes that that plan had flopped. When I told my dad, he asked questions and I could tell he didn’t quite believe it. When I told my mom, she said in a very I know you voice, “You better follow through with this, Em.” That’s probably another reason my signed contract is in the mail. Damn it, I’d rather just floss than get the lecture from the dentist! Sometimes it sucks having people who know you so well. In the end, though, it always saves me from myself.

So the year went by, and Surprise! I procrastinated. I sent in the fingerprints for my FBI background check later than I should have. I got my sealed transcripts from University of Washington literally the day before I left Seattle. In every case the actual process was simple and straightforward; I was the only one making the process difficult.

Even more hindering was the job offer I received a month before leaving Seattle. The restaurant I was laid off from wanted me back, at a high salary and with benefits. It was tempting, being able to stay in Seattle and make over twice as much as I currently was. I could still save. I could buy a car. I could continue dating that tall, handsome redhead I’d met a year before. I could see my friends daily. But when I was really honest with myself, I knew it wasn’t the right decision. And luckily, I made that choice before the offer fell apart. (Long story short, they wanted to hire me back to save the business. When I tried to have them put the offer on paper, they said they had found buyers. As far as I know, the business is now closed and still for sale.)

So, onward! I got my paperwork in order, confirmed the date I would leave Seattle, and gave notice to my job and my landlord. Once you make those moves, it all gets real. And now, a month later, I’m sitting at Cole Coffee in Rockridge, right on the border of Oakland and Berkeley, celebrating with myself the fact that my contract is in the mail. I have my laptop on an outside table, am drinking a cup of fresh-brewed Sumatra, and reveling in the familiar smell of rain in the air. Mentally patting myself on the back for completing something, and telling myself Life is what you make it.

I’m definitely starting to believe it.

 

Auntie Em’s AdLib Pulled Pork

My favorite thing about cooking is how creative it lets you be in the kitchen. I am not a recipe follower. In fact, I avoid sticking to a recipe like I avoid romance novels. There is definitely an allure; I just can’t make myself go there.

That said, if I’m wondering how to make something, or what ingredients go in a traditional dish, I will look up a recipe. No, this does not make me a hypocrite. There are certain aspects of cooking that don’t just come naturally, usually the more difficult techniques, and I understand that in order to be at your creative best you need a foundation of skill and knowledge. However, once I look up a recipe and read it, I usually just close it right there. Time for the creativity to begin. Screw the rules.

Yesterday, I made pulled pork. We’ve made this quite a number of times at Phinney Market (my former employer in Seattle), but I was never directly responsible for it. Ah, the luxury of having multiple talented chefs in one kitchen! I decided it was my turn to take a stab at finger-lickin’ awesomeness.

I knew I needed a slow cooker, or an oven set-up that would allow me to cook the pork for at least five hours. No Crockpot, but I did find a Le Creuset Dutch oven in the bottom drawer. Perfect. After doing some research on the durability of the hard plastic lid handle, I opted to cover the base with aluminum foil and cover the whole thing with a cookie sheet. Improvised lid. Voila.

At a local butcher shop I asked for some pork shoulder. All they had was pork butt. Rolling with the porky punches, I bought half of what looked like a giant pork ass. Mmm, tasty! Once home, I decided to make a rub for the meat. Leslie’s spice cabinet had two spice rubs in it, but stubbornly (or creatively) I decided to make my own. Here’s my rule about spices: Once you pick a flavor profile (smoky, Asian, sweet, spicy), use whatever you have. I wanted something savory, a little spicy, smoky, with a hint of sweet (so, basically everything. I’m difficult like that). I started pulling things off the shelf: mustard powder, chili powder, paprika, Lowry’s seasoned salt, cinnamon, sea salt, white pepper, black pepper… whatever looked good. I mixed some of each into a small bowl, going heavy on the paprika, chili powder, salt and pepper, then got a flash of brilliance. Ground coffee! In it goes. Once the mixture smelled like the idea I had in my head, I put it in a small, dry frying pan to toast up. Toasting your spices first makes a HUGE difference. It allows them to release their aromas, and like toasting bread, it helps create a new, unique, toasty flavor. Turn the skillet on low and wait for the smell. You’ll know what I mean.

Once the spices had cooled, I rubbed them rather violently into the hunk of pork. (Handling my ingredients is also one of my favorite things about cooking. I was hoping that by slapping the pig butt around a little it would get nice and tender. Muahaha!) When it had reached toasty sienna-colored submission, I wrapped it back up in the butcher’s paper and put it in the fridge for at least two hours.  Many thumb-twiddling minutes later, I put my earthy-smelling, raw pork perfection in the crock pot. In went most of two bottles of hard apple cider (some for the pork, some for the chef!), a splash of apple cider vinegar and a splash of water. (Really, it was mostly just hard cider). Two bay leaves, some extra salt, and a bunch of carrots and mini potatoes (because hey, you might as well cook the rest of dinner at the same time) later, it was ready for my improvised lid and the oven.

Then the real wait begins. Afraid the impatient, hungry sounds coming from my stomach would wake the neighbors, I started reading. And whaddaya know, six hours later I was halfway through a book and we had pulled pork for dinner.

Who knew a pig’s ass could taste this good?!

 

Back Pain and Crabbiness

I am floor-ridden. After two years of relative back health, I have come undone. I forgot how much it sucks to have your back ‘go out’. Nothing is comfortable. There’s only so much that ice and ibuprofen can do. I feel helpless.

I spend the morning doing chores, all in a very straight-backed position. Chin up, lifting body weight with my legs; I think to myself, Maybe those chips the other day weren’t such a great idea. Also,  I need to do more yoga. Also, Where does Mom keep the Vicodin? My body is failing me. I’m too young for this, damnit.

I sweep and do some dishes, making my legs form an equilateral triangle with the floor to bring my shoulders closer to the sink. It hurts to bend.  Mom has been given a couple of Dungies (Dungeness crab, for you non-San Franciscans) from a friend with a crab trap on the ocean side of the Golden Gate Bridge. I am charged with the task of cleaning them. My mom LOVES crab, especially Dungeness. (Second favorite being, of course, Aunt Honey’s Maryland Blue Crab.)  This is not something that will go over lightly if I mess it up. I pull out my laptop and a friendly Indian man on YouTube teaches me the proper method. Success.

To clean crab:

Step one: Put the crab shell side up on the table and place your hand firmly over the legs right next to the shell. Using your other hand, rip the shell off. Simple.

Step two: Pull out the gills, guts and off with the head. This is easiest under running water. There is a bunch of yellow goo (crab cholesterol) which, I don’t know about you, but I wouldn’t want to eat. I really don’t even want to touch it.

Step three: Turn the crab over and pull off the ‘tail’. My dad taught me when I was younger that this piece on male crabs is narrow and on females it is wide. This one was a Male. Now it is Dinner.

Strange, but cleaning crab makes me feel like an adult. Even having worked as a chef in Seattle, having cleaned and fileted whole halibut and King salmon, cooked shellfish countless ways, this is the first time I have been entrusted with the process at home. While I know it’s just because my mom is busy at work, I take a childish pride in being given the task.

As a kid, my dad, sister and I would bring home live crab from Half Moon Bay after spending the day at the beach. It was one of the little things my dad did for my mom that he knew would make her happy, like stopping on the coast to let me cut her fresh calla lilies. Bringing home crab always meant a good time. My sister and I would sit high on chairs in the kitchen while my dad cut them loose from the plastic bag and let them scurry around on the floor, Ali and I shrieking in fear and excitement. Mom’s homicidal hunger would reach a boiling point (pun intended) and soon they would be in the pot. I have rarely seen my mom happier than at the table with a mountain of crab before her, picking the bodies apart with her fingers, savoring each mouthful.

When I can’t take standing up anymore I go lie down in my mom’s bed, pillow under my knees for support. What the hell do I do now? Download a book onto my phone and start reading. Anything is better than crappy daytime TV. Even I, without a TV for over five years, have seen this re-run of America’s Next Top Model.  I’m suddenly glad for a portable device that lets me do so many things; it means I can stay in one place. Books and games at my fingertips.

Barry Lopez has got to be my favorite author of the moment. My BFFL (Best Friend For Life), Alec, turned me on to him about a year ago. His writing  is exactly what I want  in this time of transition, full of anecdotes and forays into the relationship between people and the land. I strongly recommend it to anyone who appreciates and welcomes those moments of silence in nature; moments in which you feel the world continuing on around you, uninterrupted by human involvement. Powerful. Inspiring.

At three my mom comes home from work and we leave for San Diego to visit Nonnie, my grandmother. Eight hours (plus) in the car does not sound like a great idea when I’ve been icing and medicating all day. Deep breaths, a fresh dose of ibuprofen and a back brace from the 1980’s resembling something between a corset and a straight jacket let me at least sit in a fairly comfortable position in the passenger seat.

We set off, hitting weekend traffic almost immediately. Once we are through the windmills and hit I-5 South it is smooth sailing, and Mom’s new Clubman Mini Cooper is soon weaving through cars going 90. Crab on ice in the backseat, me with my back brace, Mom flipping radio stations asking me to tell her bad jokes to stay awake. San Diego, watch out!

This drive means I will have traversed the entire west coast of the U.S. in a matter of weeks. It feels fitting, to travel the length of my homeland before setting off overseas. A thorough farewell. As the sun dips over the undulating hills to the west, we become just one of many, heading south. Cities glow along the distant horizon, the stars are overhead, and cruise control kicks in.

 

In the Saddle

Today Ali took me riding. It’s been a few years since I’ve been in the saddle, but as soon as jeans hit leather it all came rushing back. Shoulders, hips, ankles in line. Heels down. Look where you want to go. My aunt’s voice saying, “Relax the (w)hole.”

I have such an immense respect for my sister. Like me, she has found and chosen a career path that she loves. Despite the long hours, lack of recognition and low income, she spends each day perfecting the elements of her world she can control. As I walk through the several barns on the property, I know when I enter hers; I can literally feel the sense of dedication and love she puts into her work. It shows in the cleanliness of the barn, the organized and labeled tack, the healthy look of the horses. I know she spends the extra time to make sure everything is done right.

I spent the morning doing paperwork, going to the post office, sorting through loose ends. Without complaint she is my chauffeur; we get lunch and complete my errands. By the time we are done it is nearly three o’clock, and we head to the barn. As soon as we turn off the highway, we are in her world. Any sense of ‘older sister’ immediately fades. I am in her capable hands. I lag behind, watching her assume a quiet confidence I know she finds here in this space. I can feel by extension my step get lighter, a wave of happiness. I find such joy in knowing she has this place, this small part of the world that gives her a sense of responsibility, courage, work ethic, motivation. Her horse, Dezi, seems to know the peculiar sound of her footsteps and cranes her head, searching. She takes a while to warm up to me, but we make friends. Maple oat cookies help.

We spend the day riding in the fields, up the road to look at neighboring goats and cows, the flocks of geese that have landed everywhere on their journey south. There is no one else around. It’s peaceful. We break the silence with peals of laughter at silly jokes, little things only sisters share. It’s so good to spend time with her.

In the arena she lets me urge Dezi into a trot, after scolding me for trying it in the pasture. “There are holes!” she yells from a few yards behind me. I make her laugh, passing her doing the Gagnam-style dance move with my arms, almost falling out of the saddle as I miss a post and crack up. She catches it all on video.

All in all, a great day. I’m filled with a sense of awe for my sister who has found this valuable place in the world. I’m also realizing our similarities, reveling in them, glad that we are so similar in the way we work. I think we both thrive in a leadership role, whether or not we seek it out. She has a quiet power to her that I respect, love, appreciate. I hope we have more time to explore our other similarities. It’s so easy to see the differences that sometimes the things we have in common get overlooked.

We spent the ride home belting the soundtrack to Wicked at the top of our lungs, me cracking up while she changed parts every other line, making it impossible to sing along. No matter. Now that I’ve seen the musical (right before I left Seattle Laura and I went to see it at the Paramount) I actually know some of the words. I’m happy to sing back-up.

Love you, sis.

Back in the Bay

Toto, we’re not in Washington anymore. That particular shade of emerald has been replaced by varying degrees of gold, brown and dark green; the sky is a different hue of blue, more subtle, more reflective of gold than the emerald of the north. There is smog. I forgot that most major cities have smog.

Everything feels so industrial, so spread out, so dependent on cars to get anywhere, both more diverse and more segregated. The cultural pockets of almost every nation are larger here, solidly sprouted, growing. Seattle feels lacking in diversity by comparison. I’m enjoying the change, the lowered cars, the Latino, African-American and Muslim culture at every turn. Makes me feel like part of something, like my local sphere of awareness has just been shot exponentially outwards. In that sense I am realizing what stepping out of Seattle will accomplish. This is my goal, isn’t it? To see the world. To become a member of international society and gain perspective on my own life. Oh, right, and to save up enough money to pay off my student loan debts and give myself a leg-up financially. To at least be able to say I have ‘savings’, not just checking account back-up.

Money, status, materialism is suddenly a major, daily part of life. It’s no surprise to feel it at full strength here: this is the birthplace of tech, home to Stanford, Berkeley, dot coms, innovation. The expanse of it makes Seattle feel like a little sister by comparison. Put in check over Skype last night, I’m also part of a different social group, spending time in a new financial and cultural sphere. Of course materialism will feel more prominent outside of my generation’s Goodwill-based fashion scene. Want a laugh? Check out this music video of ‘Thrift Shop’ by my favorite Seattle hip-hop artist, Macklemore. http://youtu.be/QK8mJJJvaes. If anyone finds adult-sized batman onesies, email me immediately. I’m a size L.

Living at home again is completely and utterly bizarre. It’s kind of like moving in with an incredibly generous roommate who knows you too well. It’s difficult to maintain independence, emotional and financial, while relying so much on the generosity of others. The internal struggle is immense. It would be so easy to slip back into childhood habits, but it’s more complicated than that now. I left Seattle with such a solid sweat-and-blood foundation of independence and strength under me, and I’m going to need that more than ever in the months ahead. As much as I want to, I can’t seem to let my guard down. A defense mechanism, surely. Letting myself freely rely on others now will just make it harder later when there is only me, myself and I, won’t it? To be clear, I couldn’t accomplish this huge change without the support of my parents. Whether or not they actually believed I would go through with it (let’s face it, they deserve their doubts), once the train started moving they have all jumped on board running. I feel grateful for my life, the opportunities I have. The people I know who love and support me, my families both here and up north. Perhaps that’s why I’m in such a great place to start this adventure: I’m not running from anything. The flight deck has been thoroughly checked and we are ready for launch. Or at least a parent-pillowed controlled leap.

Reaching the Pacific

And I’ve made it to California.

Last night we camped at Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park. Almost everywhere we stop Dad says, “You’ve been here before.” And while I can’t remember the time, the place is familiar on a cellular level. The giant redwoods make me feel miniscule and historically unimportant and safe, like if they can withstand so much time, so can I. I grew up in the redwoods; they were part of my consciousness as I developed a sense of it. It’s been a decade since they’ve been part of my day-to-day existence, and once again among them I revert to my childhood self. Makes me want to go build forts, pretend to live in that burned out center of the biggest tree I can find.

Think My Side of the Mountain. That was me in my head. When it’s dicey in the city, I’m always looking for hollowed-out trees.

We pull into the campground and the camp hosts are two giant elk bucks, one grazing and one sitting, making calm eye contact with me. Even in a rig like ours he is unfazed. Guess he also has a better grasp of time and transcendence than I do. That or campers feed them and I’m just a meal ticket in a giant white truck.

As we maneuver into our camp site, they lazily move out of the way, but barely. The greenest grass is right here and if we want this site, well, that’s our problem. We fight for it because the pavement is most level, and we need the refrigerator to work. It’s all relative.

Waking up this morning, the world is mist and we see our first glimpse of sun. It’s otherworldly, and indeed, I am in another world.

We drive on, and soon the Pacific (glory!) fills the windshield. The sun is blinding after days in the trees and rain. It makes my eyes water, everything sparkle, and the ocean seem even more blue than I remember. Time for a dip into the camper to make squirt sandwiches (that’s when you squirt the condiments directly from the tube) and we are back on the road—mouths full, eyes full, hearts full. Like with redwoods, I have direct strings tied from my heart to this giant body of water, holding me in place. Soon I will be looking at it from the east, while my whole life I’ve used it to subconsciously know which way was west. Strange.

We get to where we’re going, which isn’t where we set out for. That’s the nature of a wander, I guess. I take some alone time on the north shore of Lake Mendocino, and pull out my laptop on a picnic table under a giant oak tree. THUNK. Acorn bombs. I type faster. THUNK! This could potentially be worse than sitting under a pigeon-strung telephone wire. THUNK. Ok, down jacket-armor back on, laptop lid bent towards me to fend off potential ricochets. Adapting. Refusing to move. I need to be in one place for a while.

I make my first call back to Seattle. Eli has a way of getting right to the heart of what I’m thinking, and I want to process out loud, connect back to something familiar. It’s good to hear his voice. We talk about my trip, and the elk, and the books we are reading. I try to ignore how far my voice is being hurtled through space to get to him. It’s dark by now in Seattle and only just dusk here.

As the sun dips further behind the mountains, I gather myself to pack up and head up to our campsite. We are tucked in the oaks and manzanita and I know if I don’t start the climb up the hill now, I’ll have to pick my way up the campground road until I see the white blur of the camper in the darkness. Hopefully Dad has beat me back and left a light on.

When camping, the fall of the sun usually means dinner, a date with a good book, and a few more hours of sleep than I normally get. Looking forward to it. On to Oakland tomorrow.